Review: 2011 Elvio Cogno Barbera d’Alba “Bricco dei Merli”


The picturesque Elvio Cogno estate is perched in the hilltop town of Novello in the rolling hills of Piemonte. These fourth generation winemakers are combining the traditional grape varieties and historic vineyards of this legendary region with modern winemaking practices to produce wines that toe the line between contemporary and traditional styles.

There were roughly 10,000 bottles of the 2011 Barbera d’Alba “Bricco dei Merli” produced. In the glass this wine is so vibrant in colour it is practically glowing, bearing a striking resemblance to Hugh Hefner’s magenta silk pajamas. The nose is equally vibrant, bursting from the glass with aromas of black cherry cola, licorice, chewable Flintstone vitamins, lavender and fresh sage. The palate features mouth watering acidity followed by plush flavours of black cherry skin, fennel, raspberry and balsamic.

The youth of this wine is evident, requiring a short time in a decanter to open up and spread its wings. This screams for a hearty bolognese or roast quail with root vegetable mash. This would also improve with short term cellaring and will drink beautifully over the next 3-5 or more. 

Price: $32